Harmonious Threads: LABRUM London's AW24 Collection Unveils the Untold Stories of Immigrant Artists in a Journey of Colours
Stepping into the world of LABRUM London's AW24 collection was not just a fashion show; it was an emotive journey that left an indelible mark on the soul. As the inspiring words of Grace Nichols' poem, "When the Colours Spoke," reverberated through the air, and the ethereal harmony of the choir intertwined with the models' elegant strides down the catwalk, a profound silence enveloped the room. In that moment, as if the universe held its breath, you could hear a pin drop. This wasn't merely a display of garments; it was a symphony of artistry and storytelling, making it one of the most emotive shows I've ever had the privilege to witness. Join me as we unravel the layers of LABRUM's AW24 collection, where each thread tells a poignant tale, and the runway becomes a canvas for the heart's deepest emotions.
The LABRUM AW24 show not only captivated with its stunning fashion but also mesmerised with an unforgettable soundtrack and poignant poem. Grace Nichols' evocative poem, "When the Colours Spoke," served as the soulful heartbeat of the event, weaving through the air like a lyrical tapestry of emotions. As the choir's angelic voices resonated within the expansive space, their harmonies danced among the audience, wrapping them in a cocoon of beauty and emotion. So beautiful were their voices that they seemed to transcend the physical realm, transporting listeners to a realm where colours and sound intertwined, creating a sensory experience unlike any other.
Together, the soundtrack and poem elevated the show to a transcendent realm, leaving an indelible imprint on all who were fortunate enough to bear witness.
Explore and pay tribute to the untold stories of the inspiring immigrant artists through LABRUM London's AW24 collection, a captivating journey celebrating the vibrant cultures immigrants bring across continents. Creative Director Foday Dumbuya pays homage to immigrant artists, weaving inspiring tales of overcoming adversity into the fabric of art and fashion.
The Naimbana patchwork blazer serves as a symbol, fusing diverse cultures with off-cuts from LABRUM's studio, showcasing Masha Guyard's improv patchwork and hand-free motion quilting of cowrie shells. Techniques like fabric wrapping embody practicality, resilience, and a nod to historical adornment practices.
AW24's global textile techniques, from digital embroidery to screen-printing, create a 'Cultural Confluence' in silhouettes, embracing the diversity of cuts, shapes, and styles. Accessories pay tribute to global journeys, reinterpreting luggage and goods with vintage suitcases and distinctive headwear like the striking 30-meter coiled hemp braid bowl hat.
The finale, 'FLAGS,' is a powerful visual representation inspired by a photo from Thailand, featuring flags representing countries in key migrations throughout history. LABRUM London seamlessly blends traditional and contemporary elements, inviting you to join the journey as they reimagine African design as a contemporary language of beauty and unity.
In today's modern world, where cultural appreciation and respect are paramount, Nick Irwin, a renowned session hairstylist, demonstrates the perfect balance between homage to cultural heritage and innovation.
Through his meticulous creations, he pays tribute to the rich tapestry of immigrant travelers' influences, cross-referencing various cultural elements to weave together hair looks that resonate deeply with authenticity and respect for the past. Irwin's collaboration with individuals from diverse ethnicities in this show exemplifies a nuanced approach to hairstyling, where every detail, from West African tribal techniques to modern interpretations, is carefully considered.
By utilising a comprehensive range of products from Session Label, Irwin and the Schwarzkopf Pro team achieve the perfect texture tailored to each model's ethnicity, ensuring that their heritage shines through. Techniques like applying mousse to dry hair, allowing it to settle naturally, or using gelee to expedite braiding while maintaining shine and control over flyaway hairs, showcase Irwin's commitment to authenticity and innovation.
Each style is meticulously finished with the fast becoming ‘iconic strong hairspray’, locking in the essence of every look and paying homage to the cultural roots that inspire them.
In embracing cultural references and influences with reverence and sensitivity, Nick Irwin sets a powerful example of how to navigate the complex terrain of cultural appropriation, creating beauty that celebrates diversity while honouring the past.
For the LABRUM AW24 show, the makeup vision crafted by International makeup artist Jane Richardson is a mesmerising blend of cultural inspiration and modern interpretation. Drawing from the tribal markings that adorned the references presented, Richardson embarked on a journey to infuse the models' faces with vibrant hues while maintaining a subtle, natural allure.
Steering clear of literal translations, she opted for tones reminiscent of Henna, mimicking the earthy texture of clay, and applied them in a free-flowing, intuitive manner that accentuated the models' bone structure and seamlessly melded into their skin. This technique not only imparted a dewy-matte finish to the male models' skin but also imbued the women's makeup with a soft, ethereal glow. While delicately filling in brows where necessary, Richardson introduced contrasting colours, such as mustard yellow and olive green into the cheek and eye areas, echoing the hues found in the clothing.
The result? A harmonious fusion of makeup and fashion, where each element complements the other, allowing the natural beauty of the models to shine through. With a focus on skincare essentials like The Ordinary moisturisers and Hyaluronic acid, Richardson celebrates the art of enhancing one's natural features while embracing creativity and individuality. It's a testament to the power of great skin, authenticity, and the collaborative spirit that fuels the fashion world's most captivating moments.
As LABRUM celebrates its remarkable tenth anniversary with a showcase that dazzled the senses and stirred the soul, it's clear that the brand's visionary designer has much more in store for the future. From the meticulously crafted hairstyles by session hairstylist Nick Irwin to the ethereal makeup vision of Jane Richardson, every element of the show exuded a profound sense of artistry and cultural reverence.
The soundtrack, underscored by Grace Nichols' enchanting poem, "When the Colours Spoke," and brought to life by the angelic choir, elevated the experience to new heights of beauty and emotion. As LABRUM embarks on its next chapter, we eagerly anticipate the realisation of the designer's ambitious 50-year plan. A testament to unwavering dedication, creativity, and innovation. Here's to LABRUM, a beacon of inspiration in the fashion world, and to the designer's boundless vision for the future. May the journey ahead be filled with continued success, creativity, and profound impact. Cheers to the next fifty years of brilliance!
Show credits:
Creative Director Foday Dumbuya @labrumlondon
Styling by Mark Makanaka Mutyambizi @makanak_a
Casting by Jonathan Johnson @iamjonjohnson @jonjohnsonstudios
Hair by Nick Irwin with thanks to Schwarzkopf Professional @nickirwinhair @schwarzkopfpro #schwarzkopfprofessional #sessionlabel @kim_howells
Make up by Jane Richardson at Gary Represents with thanks to The Ordinary @theordinary @garyrepresents @citizenjanes
Soundwork by Julianknxx with Paul Cousins and Tawiah @juliankxx @paulcousinsmusic @tawiah@studioknxx
Poem 'When the Colours Spoke' by Grace Nichols
Choir- Tobi Obisanya, Layla Ley, Jade Joseph, Deborah Osibodu, Niiella Dankwah-Coffie, Jabez Walsh, James Numbere
Footwear by Adidas @adidaslondon @adidasoriginals DrMartens @drmartensofficial
Headwear by Lucy Barlow @lucybarlow.hats
Patchwork & Quilting by Masha Guyard @madeinmash
Byborre - Engineered Knitted Lab @byborre
Moet & Chandon @moetchandon @ivanalostudio
British Fashion Council @britishfashioncouncil
Production @weare24
PR & Comms @b_theagency
Zak Group @zakgroupoffice
180 Studios @180.studios
LABRUM Team
@labrumlondon @iamfods
Abisola Akanni, Aneta Blanka Pejcharova, Damilola Ajani, Dina Ozorio Saldanha, Finlay West, Marcelle Agyapong, Nathan Carbon, Natalie Krauter, Rachael Adegoke, Tess Fontaine Maiah Marriner
Hair team:
Backstage Production @mrsstaceyirwin
1st assistants @mrjubbs @alexsarghe @specialtouch.nuria
Grooming & Barbering @datbarbernat 👑 @thehairypeople
Hair team
@hair.by.rosie.grace
@geniachurch
@stylesbysewa
@luciajosephine_
@hairbyvillsstudio
@michaelabodden_
@hairbyrachael.b
@marz_cielen
@ecarrillowave
@arienessalones