“Grief is the price we pay for love.”
The brand's designs are poignant and emotive, and that's just what we need right now.
Erdem Moralioglu’s show was full of dignity and poise that commanded no beginning or end for his story of sensitive beauty. His show notes captured much with a few words: “Grief is the price we pay for love”, A show dedicated to her Majesty Queen Elizabeth 11.
For Spring Summer 2023, Erdem has explored the restoration of art. The knowledge, skill and dedication required in restoration is both a visceral and a technical form of creativity. It requires forensic passion; individual pieces might be worked upon by a sole restorer for up to twenty years.
The collection examines the space between care and obsession in the pursuit of preservation. One can peer so deeply into the imagination of others that the boundaries between restoration and inhabitation become blurred.
The late Queen Elizabeth II's style was defined by classic tailoring and regal elegance. She was a beloved member of the royal family, and her death was a huge loss to the United Kingdom. Erdem Moralioglu dedicated his SS23 collection to her memory, creating pieces that reflect the Queen's timeless elegance.
Moraloglu's collection began with an exuberant, half-mast Union Jack waving sombrely in the wind, as a procession of sheer black veils, ballerina length tulle dresses and swathes of lace draped over one shoulder Royal sash style, provided a reflection on portraiture of the past.
A go-to designer for the Royal Family, Moralioglu printed Her Majesty's enduring quote "Grief is the price we pay for love" on the show notes.
"Restoration" was the theme of Erdem's SS23 show, and NARS Global Artistry Director Jane Richardson took it to heart.
She used products like the NARS Powermatte Lipstick in No Angel to gently restore models' lips to their natural shade after pin-point concealing, spot highlighting and just a finger press of painterly ochre-tinted lipstick transformed naturally beautiful models into living portraits. Even Richardson's application techniques rang true of restoring art, gently buffing out models' lip colour with concealer if their resting shade was too pink to let the rusty-hued NARS Powermatte Lipstick in No Angel ring true.
"I'm applying highlighter to the middle of the eyelid and underneath the brows to pull focus to the eyes which are always the most important part of a portrait," explained Richardson backstage.
L'Oréal Pro hairstylist Adam Reed took a modern approach to the brief, using a combination of brushed out blanket waves and 'city slick' gelled roots for his take on the old-meets-new.
In order to create this look, Reed said that care and consideration for the models themselves was priority. He encouraged his team of backstage stylists to check on their comfort if any pulling or tugging was required.
Even Reed's use of products put the models first, with a bespoke mix of L'Oréal Professionnel Fix Max gel and Metal Detox Professional Concentrated Oil creating a flexible formula that could easily be rinsed out post-show.
I would like to thank the following people for allowing me into their fascinating worlds: Louisa Burden and the conservation team at The British Museum Jacqueline Moon, Charity Fox, Emily Williams and Jordan Megyery at Tate Lara Flecker, Katy Smith, Keira Miller, Louisa Geddes, Nora Brockmann, Lilia Tisdall and Roisin Morris at The Victoria and Albert Museum Larry Keith at The National Gallery
Photography by Jason Lloyd Evans
Styling by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson
Hair by Adam Reed for L'Oreal
Make up by Jane Richardson for NARS
Nails by Jessica Thompson for OPI
Skin by 111SKIN
Underwear by Commando
Socks by Falke
Casting by Noah Shelley
Show Production by OBO
Music by Natalie Holt